Though the Lakehouse is Wilson’s own restaurant and concept, it supplies room service (and culinary cred) for Bellevue’s new W Hotel-an affiliation that really becomes apparent when you visit the restroom. In 12 years running restaurants, he says, you’re bound to evolve: “Most people in this city are not doing the same job they were doing 10 years ago.”
At the Lakehouse, seasonal vegetables dominate the menu and Wilson made sure the sleek white bars and long farmhouse table are all the height of a residential countertop, to evoke the feeling of sitting in somebody’s kitchen rather than at a bar. The “frozen stones and Klipsun verjus mignonette” starter sounds like madcap modernism until you get to the next line and realize this is, in fact, a plate of oysters.Ĭrush’s tasting menus established Wilson as a modernist, fine-dining guy Miller’s Guild will forever associate him with meat. Each plate’s accompaniments are listed above the actual dish. The restaurant’s focus on form can sometimes impair function: The first thing you notice upon perusing the oversize leather-backed menus is the confusing formatting. But the price points make the Lakehouse’s occasional kinks-shared pasta dishes that arrive with no serving spoon, deviled eggs overcooked to rubbery-all the more glaring. That number, to be fair, is what happens when top-quality ingredients undergo ample preparation to be served in a high-end restaurant. The whole chicken prepared four ways sounds like a spectacle, tastes discordant, and clocks in at $64. The housemade pastas veer between wonderful and totally fine your best bet is one that involves an egg yolk. Some less impressive dishes lurk among the hits. Antler-shaped sconces illuminate teams of blue-shirted dudes, couples on the sort of date night that merits stilettos, and even families grateful for the restaurant’s arsenal of metal lunch boxes filled with kid-occupying toys. And, damn-does this place have style, from the black-and-white floral wallpaper above white leather booths to industrial black ceiling trestles over endless white marble bar tops and columns checkered with live plants. The same scene setting is at work at Wilson’s new restaurant in the Lincoln Square expansion.
Lakehouse restaurant mod#
But also unintentionally comedic, considering this bank of handsome windows and the nearby row of adirondack chairs don’t face an actual lake, or even the actual out-of-doors, but an atrium in Bellevue’s newest, largest office tower.Ĭhef Jason Wilson’s always liked restaurants with pomp and presence, from the mod whiteness of his first spot, Crush ( which closed after a decade in Madison Valley), to the roaring, flame-fueled masculinity of Miller’s Guild, his downtown Seattle steak house. It’s a simple act, typical of the hospitable service here.
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